 Even in this age of software and movie downloads, there’s still a place for CD, DVD, and even BD (Blu-ray Disc). Optical formats are cheap per gigabyte; the current epitome is a 20-cent, bulk-packed DVD-R (DVD-recordable) or DVD+R (DVD plus recordable) that can store 4.7GB of data. Some formats are spacious; witness a 50GB dual-layer BD-R (BD-recordable) or BD-RE (BD-rewriteable). Optical discs are portable. They don’t take up much shelf space. They can store music, photos, and movies, as well as data. Some are playable in car stereos, some recordable in high-definition camcorders. And a few specially formulated archival discs are supposed to be able to retain their data—meaning your data—for decades.
 See Your Way Clear To Upgrade
Besides RAM, an optical drive is one of the easiest things to install in your PC. It’s literally plug and play with virtually any current operating system, meaning you shouldn’t have to install a driver. And once the drive is in, you don’t have to format it as you would a hard drive. | 
Users willing to pay a higher price for a more future-proof drive should look at a BD burner, such as the LG GGW-H20L ($399.99; us.lge.com), or a BD-ROM, such as the Sony BDU-X10S ($199.99; www.sonystyle.com). |
Despite the high price, we chose an LG Super Multi Blue GGW-H20L ($399.99; us.lge.com) for our new drive. This SATA (Serial Advanced Technology Attachment) powerhouse can burn virtually any BD, DVD, and CD format. As a bonus, it also reads the discontinued HD DVD (high-definition DVD) format.
Our test mule PC already had a very capable DVD burner, a 20X Lite-On LH-20A1L (about $35; www.liteonit.com). Because most current DVD burners are faster at reading and writing CDs and DVDs than any blue-laser (BD or HD DVD) drive with such capabilities, we decided to keep the Lite-On in the PC for those duties. (On a side note, CD and DVD drives use a red laser to read and burn their discs, whereas BD/HD DVD drives use a blue laser. The blue laser has a shorter wavelength and can be focused more precisely. Therefore, it can store more information on a disc than a red laser, just as you could write a more detailed note to someone with a pen than with a thick marker. Most BD and HD DVD drives incorporate both blue and red laser assemblies to read and perhaps burn both classes of discs.)
We’ll limit our stately new LG GGW-H20L to playing BD movies and, when blank disc prices come down, burning BD-R and BD-RE media. When you consider that a new DVD burner can cost $26 or less online, it just makes financial sense to put the most wear and tear on the much cheaper drive.
Installation
You’ll need a Philips screwdriver, preferably one with a magnetic tip. Work carefully. You don’t have to treat an ODD (optical disc drive) like it’s a carton of eggs, as you should a hard drive, but you don’t want to subject it to unnecessary jars and bumps, either. | 
Retail drives typically come with software, a data cable, and mounting screws, but Sony often throws in a replaceable drive bezel, a SATA power adapter (where applicable), and an emergency tray-opening tool. |
Finally, take a break every minute or two to touch a grounded metal object. This will dispel any static electricity you’ve built up so you won’t zap something sensitive in your computer.
Our LG drive’s SATA interface made our installation simple. For information on how to configure a slightly more complex EIDE (Enhanced Integrated Drive Electronics) drive, skip ahead to the next section.
Turn off your PC and unplug the power cord from the rear of the power supply. Remove both side panels from the computer case and pop off the front panel, as well. If you’ve never done this before, do it cautiously so you don’t break anything. To remove your old drive, wiggle out its data and power cables. Next, remove the four mounting screws from its sides and pull the drive out of the front of the computer case. If you plan to simply add an optical drive to a spare 5.25-inch drive bay, as we did, remove the bay’s dummy plate so you’ll be able to access the drive from the front of the PC. The dummy plate may be a replaceable piece of plastic or metal on the front panel or even a perforated metal plate you’ll have to punch out of the case.
Slide the new drive into the empty drive bay and then loosely install one of the included mounting screws through a slotted hole in the side of the drive bay. Reinstall the front panel of the case and then slide the drive forward or backward until it’s roughly flush with the front panel. Make the screw just snug enough to keep the drive from moving easily and then install the other three screws. When you’re finished, tighten them all. | 
Slide the new drive into an unused 5.25-inch drive bay and then secure it with the four included screws. |
Our drive had a SATA interface, so connecting it was as easy as hooking up an included data cable from a SATA header on the motherboard and then attaching a SATA power cable from the computer’s PSU (power supply unit). Both types of connectors are L-shaped, so there’s only one way to attach them. If your PSU doesn’t have any (or enough) SATA power connectors, use an inexpensive 4-pin Molex-to-SATA adapter cable (some retail drives include these). Finally, replace the side panels, plug in your computer’s power cable, and start the PC. You shouldn’t have to install a driver for your new drive, but you should wait a few minutes until the OS (operating system) detects the drive and tells you that it’s ready to use.
Now is the time to install any software that came with your drive, such as a BD player application.
EIDE Drives
There are still many optical drives on the market with an EIDE interface, so let's visit the topic a little. Installation is the same as for a SATA drive except in a couple of respects. | 
If your computer’s power supply includes a SATA power connector, this is how your SATA drive’s data and power hookups will look. |
Before you install the drive, decide whether you’ll be connecting it to a ribbon-like EIDE data cable that’s already attached to another device, such as a CD/DVD drive. You shouldn’t connect an optical drive to any EIDE cable with a hard drive attached to it, as it may slow down the hard drive’s performance and make your PC seem sluggish. If the new drive will be the only device on the cable, you should attach it to the cable’s end connector after you install the drive. If there’s already a device on the end connector, use the middle connector.
Next, you may need to move a jumper on the rear of the new drive. A jumper is a small block of plastic, usually black, with metal inside it. By connecting designated pairs of pins, jumpers enable certain settings. | 
If your power supply is an older model, you’ll need to use an inexpensive Molex-to-SATA power adapter to connect it to a SATA drive. |
If you’re attaching your new EIDE drive to the end connector on a data cable, set the drive’s jumper(s) to the Master position, according to the diagram on the drive’s label or in its setup documentation. If you need to hook up your drive to the middle connector, set its jumper(s) to Slave and verify that the device on the end of the cable is set to Master. Now you’re ready to install the drive according to the instructions above.
The Fine Print
If you’re hoping to watch high-definition movies with your new BD drive, remember that it’s a much more restrictive experience than DVD viewing. You’ll need an HDCP (high-bandwidth digital content protection)-compliant graphics card and monitor (preferably a 1,920 x 1,080 widescreen), and you’ll have to connect them with a DVI (Digital Visual Interface) or HDMI (High-Definition Multimedia Interface) cable. You’ll need a very fast PC, too, and compatible player software.  by Marty Sems
How To Shop For A New BD Or DVD Drive
Buying an optical drive is simple once again. Now that HD DVD (high-definition DVD) is extinct, there are really only two choices: a DVD burner or some type of BD (Blu-ray Disc) drive.
A recordable DVD drive, or DVD±RW (DVD rewriteable), is the cheaper, faster option. They can read and write CDs and most, if not all, types of DVDs. This includes 4.7GB DVD-R (DVD-recordable), DVD+R (DVD plus recordable), DVD-RW, and DVD+RW; 8.5GB DL (dual-layer) DVD+R; and sometimes 4.7GB DVD-RAM.
And then there’s BD, the winner of the high-definition format war. The only reason to buy a read-only BD-ROM is if you really want to watch BD movies on your PC, as software is lacking in the new format. (You’ll also need a PC that’s able to play Blu-ray movies; see the The Fine Print section of this article.) Likewise, a BD-R/RE (recordable/rewriteable) is the ticket only if you want to be prepared to write 25GB or 50GB on a single disc once media prices drop low enough to make it worth your while. Most, but not all, BD writers can write DVDs and CDs, too. However, a BD-ROM may not be able to write data to any type of disc.
Some drives are no longer compelling choices. There’s really no call to buy a mere DVD-ROM or CD-ROM unless your funds are very limited. A DVD±RW will read discs just as fast as its read-only, low-buck cousins. And only if you’ve already invested in more than a few HD DVD movies should you consider spending extra on a BD drive that also reads HD DVD. You might be able to find a bargain on a dedicated HD DVD-ROM. On the other hand, movie titles that were once exclusively available in HD DVD are being released (or slated for release) in BD, so if you haven’t yet bought “King Kong” or “Batman Begins” in high-def, go Blu-ray.
As for blank media, such as DVD+R and BD-RE, know that “R” discs can only be written once (or several times until they’re full), whereas “RW” and “RE” discs are rewriteable. Recordable discs are cheap and generally very compatible with most devices, but rewriteable discs cost more, may require special writing software, and don’t work in many consumer electronics. Don’t worry overmuch about the differences between the + and – DVD formats. With very few exceptions, recent drives and players can handle + and – media interchangeably. Check your drive’s or standalone recorder’s specifications before you buy blank discs for a particular application.
Finally, a word on speeds. You’ll see drives and blank media rated for the top speeds they can theoretically attain during reading and writing near the end of a full disc. Those speed ratings are founded on multiples of a base ‘X’ speed. For BD, 1X equals 4.5MBps (megabytes per second); for DVD, 1X is 1.35MBps; and 1X CD is 0.15MBps, or 150KBps (kilobytes per second). In our example, the LG GGW-H20L is a 6X BD-R writer (assuming a blank disc is compatible with this speed), a 16X DVD burner, and a 40X CD writer. In reality, disc burning always takes longer than the speed ratings indicate. |
How To Spot Problem Optical Drives
ODDs (optical disc drives) are mechanical devices, as well as electronic, so they can wear out in a number of ways. Some simply quit when they’ve had enough. Others start to act funny and may continue to partially function (such as reading but not writing) for years. Basic troubleshooting steps include trying other brands of media, running a cleaner disc through the drive, and updating its firmware.
Your drive may be failing if:
• discs work in another drive, but not yours;
• it can’t read some or any types of discs;
• it seems inaccessible or causes delays in Windows Explorer;
• it can no longer write or causes errors during burning;
• it makes strange noises. |
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