You turn your computer on and nothing happens—no lights; no whirring sound from the fan or the hard drive spinning up; nothing. Youve checked to ensure the power cord is securely attached to both the PC and the electrical outlet. What now? Is your PCs PSU (power supply unit) dead? If so, what can you do? |  Safety: An antistatic wristband or strap (shown is Practical Tools strap) can help you maintain a grounding connection between your body and bare metal. | The PSU, which converts standard AC current into multiple, different low-voltage DC power feeds and supplies them to various internal PC components, is the most fundamental—and overlooked—component of the PC. Without it, you can do nothing—not even run boot diagnostics. While the scenario described above almost certainly indicates a dead PSU, other, less-easily-pinpointed symptoms can crop up days, if not months, before the PSU goes kaput. Many symptoms of a failing PSU have other causes, as well, but you can eliminate some possibilities and then test it to determine if it is outputting properly. If you find problems, even if the PSU hasnt hit brick stage yet, you should replace it. To learn more about evaluating possible PSU failure, refer to the Identifying Problem PSUs sidebar in this article. For tips on purchasing a new PSU—an important task not to be undertaken lightly—refer to How To Spot A Winner. If youre ready to dig right in, read on. |  Take pictures or note the location of your PCs external peripherals before you disconnect them. | Replacing a PSU and dealing with electrical current may seem like a scary operation. In reality, it is no more dangerous than other internal PC work, provided you are careful. The greatest danger when you replace any PC component is to the delicate transistors and circuits on the PC, not to you. Safety First Before you begin, taking several precautions will avoid frying your PC for good. Our bodies can discharge huge amounts of static electricity. Dont stand on a thick rug or wear fuzzy or polyester clothing. |  Place the PC on a well-lit, low-static surface and locate screws or clips that secure the case or access panels. (Shown is depressing a clip.) | Consider purchasing an antistatic wristband from your computer store or online from companies such as Belkin (www.belkin.com) for under $10. Optionally, keeping your hand in contact with an unpainted metal surface during operation will help. 1. Get ready. Grab a Phillips-head and a flat-head screwdriver, a bowl to hold screws, and a pad and paper—or a digital camera if you have one. Shut down your PC and all peripherals. Unplug all power cords and disconnect all devices from the PC. As you do this, make a note or take pictures of what attaches where for later. 2. Take your position. Place the PC on a well-lit, clean, low-static surface such as a wooden kitchen table. Locate the screws that hold the computer cover or panels in place—there may also be tabs you press to release them. Remove the cover or access panels. Ensure the interior isnt filled with dust or pet hair, which could be overheating your PC. If it is and the system has been acting erratically, a good cleaning might resolve your problems. (Make sure youre properly grounded and use appropriate cleaning methods, such as gently blowing off the dust with canned air. Brushes and other cleaning tools can generate damaging static.) |  The PSU will be a large metal box attached or butted against the back panel of the PC. | 3. Identify the PSU. It will be a large metal box with a fan grille on one side that connects to the motherboard, the hard drive, and other powered components inside the PC. Making sure you are grounded as described earlier, trace the bundles of wires that lead from the power supply to the PCs internal connectors. Note what goes where. 4. Disconnect internal cables. Grasp these connectors by their plastic ends and gently pull them loose (you may have to depress clips). Do not pull directly on the wires. Note that in some cases, you may find it is easier to pull the PSU out first (Step Five) if the connector wires are long enough. |  Remove the PSU, lifting it over and around any obstructions carefully. | 5. Extract the PSU. Remove the mounting screws that hold the PSU in place, but not the ones that attach the fan grille to the PSU. Look for a mounting bracket and remove it if necessary. Carefully remove the PSU from the case. If you need to test the old unit to make sure it is bad, do so now. |  Bring the PSU to room temperature and secure it in place where the old one was. | 6. Install the new PSU. Unpack the new PSU. If you havent previously done so, check to make sure the new PSU is an appropriate replacement for the old one. If the PSU is cold, let it come to room temperature. Place the PSU in the same position as the old one, making sure it fits comfortably. (If you removed the PSU before you disconnected cables in Step Four, reconnect them as described in Step Seven before you place the PSU.) Use the mounting screws (and bracket, if present) to fasten it down. |  Stay grounded while you carefully replace the connector cables in the correct positions and orientations. | 7. Connect the PSU. Keeping yourself grounded, reconnect the PSU cables by holding only the plastic ends. You will need to push firmly, but if you feel like you have to force one into place, you may need to rotate it 180 degrees. Pay special attention to placement of the motherboard cable if it has a 20-pin connector. 8. Perform a cable check. Make sure that no cables or unused connectors are touching the processor fan or any other moving part. Bundle loose cables and place them so that they will not become tangled up in the fans when you return the PC to its upright position. |  Keep cables away from the processor fan. (The PC may have built-in clips that assist with this.) | 9. Replace and restart. Replace the case or access panels and resecure them with the clips or screws you set aside. Return the PC to its original position and reconnect all external devices as they were. Restart your PC. If everything starts normally, youre done! Final Thoughts Power supplies and other PC components are rated for years of use, but overheating from dust and hair, overloading from high-power devices, and fluctuations from dirty power or power surges can shorten that life. If you discovered any of these issues while troubleshooting, promise yourself now that you will change your ways. And if you dont have a top-notch surge suppressor, consider purchasing one. by Jennifer Farwell
How To Spot A Winner PSUs are rated on many factors, including MTBF (mean time between failures), an estimate of how long it will run before breaking down (100,000 hours is standard); power factor (a measurement of energy-consumption efficiency; 0 is total waste; 1 is total efficiency); and wattage. You might be tempted to purchase the highest-wattage PSU you can afford, but it may not be necessary. Gamers and other high-performance users need 1,000- to 2,000-watt PSUs, but the average PC performs well on much less. Using a higher-watt system than necessary wastes energy and can damage your PSU or system (underloading a PSU is almost as bad as overloading it). Determine the wattage of your current PSU and dont be sucked into purchasing much more wattage unless you are planning a major upgrade. With that in mind, pay attention to specifications. Some manufacturers advertise peak capacity, or they rate the load at room temperature, not the temperature inside the PC. Look for a continuous wattage output at a minimum of 40 degrees Celsius and see if it matches your needs. If you are environmentally conscious, look for a high-efficiency (90% or better) PSU. The average PSU is 70 to 75% efficient. Efficient PSUs require less cooling and tend to last longer, as well. Other considerations and features are cable design (sleeved cables make installation easier and improve air flow), built-in power sag and surge protection, exterior power switches, and noise reduction techniques. High-end PSUs offer bells and whistles such as backup power, heat alarms, high-performance fans, and proactive voltage regulation. If you have a Dell PC, you must purchase a special compatible unit. Dont purchase the cheapest PSU you can. Quality ranges widely, and this is a component that can fry your entire system. Respected names for PSUs include (www.pcpower.com), Corsair (www.corsairmemory.com), and Enermax (www.enermax.com). As a final note, your new power supply should have the same dimensions and form factor as your old one. Unless your PC was built before 1996, it probably uses the ATX (Advanced Technology Extended) or possibly the BTX (Balanced Technology Extended) computer case and motherboard design. ATX motherboards can have 20- or 24-pin connectors; make sure your new PSU supports the one you need. Older PCs may require an AT-compliant PSU—PC surplus dealers will carry these. Many PSU providers can help you match your system to a new PSU. |
Identifying Problem PSUs Failing PSUs can cause a number of problems also attributable to other issues. These include random reboots or shutdowns and file corruption caused by tiny power fluctuations. These tips will help you pinpoint a PSU problem. If the PC shuts down or reboots unexpectedly, is it unresponsive for a period between reboots? If so, the PSU is likely at fault. If file corruption seems random or happens on more than one drive, the PSU is a likely culprit. Hard drive and system utilities such as Fix It Utilities (www.v-com.com) and PC Pitstop (pcpitstop.com) can pinpoint other problems. A burning smell, smoke emanating from the case, or a noise that sounds like an engine revving or ball bearings grinding almost always means PSU failure. If your system boots to the BIOS (Basic Input/Output System—the first link in the boot chain), you may see error codes or hear beeps. Some BIOS utilities offer helpful information. Watch during startup or consult your PCs manual for the BIOS manufacturer and version and then visit the companys Web site for assistance. Some PSUs have on-off and/or voltage selector switches on the back; make sure the PSU is on and set to the lower number (likely 110). Are other peripherals connected to the same surge suppressor also dead? If so, the surge suppressor may have failed. If not, change out the PCs power cord to see if its bad. Another cause of a dead PC is a faulty electrical supply. Plug the PC into an electrical outlet in a different room and see if it works. If so, your home could have outlet or circuit problems. A voltage meter (about $15) can test the outlet for power surges (from 105 to 127 volts is a normal range). If you recently upgraded your system substantially or the power supply feels very hot during operation, your PSU may be overloaded. Shut down the system and disconnect peripherals. If the PC runs normally, you may need to upgrade your PSU. Companies such as Antec (www.antec.com) sell PSU testers ($20 or less) that can tell you if the power is insufficient or oversupplied. Purchase one and you can perform one final test before you replace the PSU. |
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